El Rocío - April 21 - 25, 2018

We are again a month behind on updating our blog.  El Rocío is a small town adjacent to Doñana National Park, perhaps the most famous of all natural areas in Europe, especially for the diversity of birds.  El Rocío is quite different from other cities in Spain.  The streets are not paved and a grader smooths the sand streets after heavy rains.  The town footprint is much larger than would be expected for 23,000 inhabitants and the majority of buildings sit vacant most of the year.  Walking the sandy streets is a little eery until you get use to it.  The main claim to fame for the town is the annual pilgrimage that occurs at Pentecost, when about a million people (1,000,000!) arrive in the town and every available bed and space is taken.  Every house has a railing in front to tie the horses that transport many of the pilgrims to the town, although many people walk alone with their horses and wagons.  Legend has it that during the 15th century a woodman or hunter found a perfectly carved image of the Virgen, dressed immaculately in white, while working in the woods at this site.  They built a church on the site where the Virgin was kept.  Over the centuries, the Pilgrimage has grown, as well as the size of the church and adjacent places of worship.  You are not allowed to photograph the Virgin.

The Church of the Virgen in El Rocío

The town is very scenic, adjacent to a lake with grassy islands where flamingos and wild horses are seen.

El Rocío from across a corner of the lake

To say the least, other than the week during Pentecost, the town is pretty quiet, attracting tourists that visit the church and surrounding area.  The other attraction to tourists, and the reason for out visit, is the wildlife of Doñana National Park.  The park includes forest and grasslands, but is mostly marsh during the wet season.   One of the attractions is an opportunity to see the Iberian lynx, one of the few locations where they continue to live.   We had seen the road signs warning people to slow for lynxes; cars are a major cause of mortality.  We did not really expect to see one, but were very lucky during an early morning tour into the park.

Anita's photos of the Lynx and a pair of wild boars

Other mammals we saw include lynx food (hares, rabbits, squirrels), deer, black rat, and water vole (another rare mammal).  (Somewhere I read that water vole was an original ingredient of paella, although it may be a rumor started by the English.) After the lynx, birds are definitely the focus of the park and the attraction that brings many visitors throughout the year.  They have constructed wonderful blinds for birders at several locations along the marsh.  In four days we identified over 80 species of birds, but you could easily identify 150 or more with greater effort.

A picture of the inside of a blind for viewing birds and a white stork feeding in the marsh (flamingos are common, but always too far away for photos)

It was nice to see storks feeding in the marsh and nesting in trees.  Previously we had seen them feeding in a town dump and almost always nesting on churches, old buildings, and electrical towers; so it is nice to know they haven't completely forgotten their roots.

As always, Anita took many pictures of insects and flowers.  We have really enjoyed traveling in the spring, with beautiful gardens in the cities and beautiful wildflowers in the country.

A few of the bugs Anita has posted to I-naturalist

some of the wildflowers around El Rocío

Spain is also famous for olives and when traveling by bus or train you often pass through olive orchards as far as the eye can see.  Another claim to fame for El Rocío is the grove of ancient olive trees near the center of town, many several hundred years old, perhaps half a century.  The old olive trees are wild, called acebuches, and are native to the historic forests of cork oak and carob.

Dining and posing under the ancient olive trees and passing alongside an olive orchard on the way to El Rocío

Although the lynx may have been a highlight, the flowers, birds, and history were also enjoyable, not to mention the fabulous food.  We were sad to leave, but excited to be on our way to Granada.

Sevilla

After an eventful start, including a taxi strike, Anita being sick, and a missed bus, we arrived in Seville on April 13 (Friday, of course).

We stayed at an Airbnb close to the bull ring with Katie, a wonderful woman from England.  She has a lovely apartment on the 3rd floor (4th by U.S. count) and has lived in Spain for over 20 years (the same apartment in Sevilla).

For several reasons, Sevilla is possibly the most beautiful large city in all of Spain, primarily because its history, architecture and life itself centers on the Guadalquivir River.     

The architecture of the old and new buildings is dramatic. Everywhere you go near and even outside the city center, you see beautiful buildings.

Clockwise from top right: Cathedral at night, Cathedral during the day, a church near the river, and sculptures in  niches on one side of the Cathedral

The detail in the architecture is really incredible, including sculpture facings and tile work.  From park benches to railings along walkways, we experienced amazing craftsmanship.

In addition to the above, Sevilla is defined by its gardens in the parks, plazas, and along the river; they are serene and refreshing places to walk.  Whenever we needed a break, a garden was alway nearby and offered a good place to rest.

Clockwise from upper right: tortured trees, a small nook in the garden at the Alcazar, the garden at Plaza de Americas, and even a roof garden near the bus terminal.

Clockwise from upper right: Island of the birds, the mote around the island of the birds, sculptures, and "Fuente de las Ranas", a frog fountain just for Anita.  (All in the park near Plaza de España)

Sevilla is beautiful on its own, and then there are the highlights: the Alcazar (an ancient palace constructed over many centuries and influenced by the various folks in power at the time, including the Arabs, Christians, and others).

The Alcazar is definitely a beautiful place to visit and should not be missed on a trip to Sevilla.  We enjoyed our day learning about the history and viewing all the different forms of architecture.  Another place not to miss is the Plaza de España.  I especially enjoyed visiting during the early morning before the crowds arrived.

The Alcazar is beautiful and full of history, but the Plaza de España is grand, truly a place not to be missed in Sevilla.  As well as the dramatic architecture and spaces, we especially enjoyed the presentations of historic events and maps showing their locations for each of Spain's states (Spain has over 50 provinces or states and each one is represented). The tile work forming the scenes and the maps is incredible.  Beautiful presentations of history.

The 4 presentations of the states that I most enjoyed are shown below.

Clockwise from upper right:  Zaragoza (for its clarity), the Canary Islands (unexpected), Ciudad Real (I just like to see Don Quixote), and Avila (I really enjoyed the battle scene: the men are all wearing armor and carrying shields, but the woman is out there in her nightie leading the charge with her sword raised)

By accident, we arrived during the week of “Feria”, second only to Semana Santa as celebrations in Seville.  The week starts off with the opening of the Feria grounds, where thousands of clubs, families, organizations, and other groups have set up tents where everyone (it seems) in the city meets after 9:00 p.m. for eating fried fish and drinking into the early morning.  We walked through the Feria but left at about 11:00 p.m. so missed the lighting of the thousands of hanging lights that occurs at midnight on Saturday.  The lights will be turned out ceremoniously at midnight on the following Saturday.  

It is truly an amazing event.  The tents are set up and taken down every year and most amazing of all is the entrance to the Feria, a huge arch that is designed and constructed uniquely every year.

Clockwise from upper right: the tents at night, tables and chairs inside one of the tents (many were more elaborate than this), and of course the various rides that make it a fair for children and adults alike.

Clockwise from upper right: the entrance to the Feria (note the trucks driving through - not a small structure), the tents during the morning after everyone has gone home, and venders refurbishing the wine, soda, and beer for the coming night - 5 nights to go!

The Feria is quite the party and includes many daytime activities:  bull fights every day for a week (we didn't attend) and a parade of horses and carriages representing various families and organizations from Sevilla.  We attended the parade of carriages in the bull ring, the only opportunity to see them in one place (you could see them around town throughout Feria week).

Andalusia (southern Spain, is famous for its beautiful and well trained horses.  The horses circling were from Mexico, this years invited guest.

We visited an exhibition highlighting the work of Van Gogh.  There was none of his original work, but it was a fun exhibit of lights and sound explaining both his life and his work.  We liked the Sevilla touch: a flamenco dress with the starry night motif.  

On one of my morning walks, I discovered this incredible (for its enormous size and topic) sculpture.  Columbus met with Queen Isabella in Sevilla (at the time, the capital of Spain) and Queen Isabella funded his voyage that ended with the discovery and ultimate European settling of America.  The sculpture is called "Huevo de Colón" or Egg of Columbus, representing the hatching of the event that led to the colonization of America.  The giant sculpture was part of the World Exposition in the 1990's.  

I especially liked the sash with the Niña, Pinta, y Santa Maria sailing to America

The food continues to be fantastic in both flavor and presentation.  The food below represents an appetizer (coquina clams in garlic and olive oil), 1st course (garbanzo beans and spinach), main course (cod and shrimp cooked to perfection), and a pastry (beautifully decorated).

Finally, it would not be right to not mention the famous Spanish hams, hanging in all the good bars and restaurants throughout Spain.  I have to say, I have enjoyed the ham and it is very different than ham in the states, much dryer and variable in taste depending on the region.  You can get American ham, but why?  The restaurant the other day had run out of Iberian ham, tragic.  I love the special holders for cutting each ham.  Once cured they seem to be able to hang them anywhere, ready for eating.

Note the hams hanging behind the gentleman cutting slices from a leg.

April 8 found us back on the train, we returned to Atocha where we transferred to a high-speed train.  The train station at Atocha is amazing.  There are 10 tracks with regular trains from outlying cities (cercanias) and there are 3 tracks with high-speed trains to the more distant and larger cities (Barcelona, Valencia, and, our destination, Sevilla).  All of the trains are very nice, but the high speed trains are really first class. The trains travel at up to 190 mph, much faster than I have ever traveled on the ground.

We arrived in Seville after just over 2 hours, took a taxi to the bus station, ate more delicious tapas, and traveled by bus to Tarifa (a 3 hour trip). We passed through beautiful farm country with almonds, olives, vineyards, oranges (and more oranges), and pasture and wheat fields, often dotted with wind turbines and solar collectors.  Arriving in Tarifa, we were greeted by modern high-rise motels but following a short taxi ride to the gates of the old city we soon entered a magical place with narrow streets paved with stone, old restored buildings, and small quaint restaurants.

We had hoped for whale watching in Tarifa, but strong winds kept us on land during our stay.  On our last day, the winds pealed your eye lids back unless you wore sun glasses and the shorebirds had retreated to meadows above the ocean cliffs. 

Tarifa is the furthest southern point of the Iberian peninsula (Spain and Portugal) and, along with Africa, borders the connection between the Atlantic Ocean on the west and the Mediterranean on the east.  Standing on the point, you can have one foot in each body of water.

Looking across the Mediterranean toward Africa

We visited an ancient castle, the furthest south in Europe (of course).  It has an interesting history, having been constructed and occupied by Moors and various christian and other folks.  The photo below shows a bit of the castle and the legend surrounding "Guzmán the Good", who let his son be killed rather than surrender to the attackers.  He through down the dagger for the attackers to use for killing his son.

I had more pictures prepared, but I seem to have deleted them.  Given that I am so far behind on the blog, I'll move on to our next destination.